MANAGEMENT OF CIDER APPLE TREES.

[This article is continued from a previous page before the beginning of this volume.]

TREE GUARDS.—It is not sufficient carefully to select and plant the trees to insure their success. They must be attended to in several ways the first few years after having been planted. They must be protected, 1st, against sun-strokes; 2d, from the teeth of animals; 3d, against bruises, &c.; 4th, from wind.

PROTECTION AGAINST SUN-STROKES.—If the onguent de St. Fiacre (cow-dung and clay,) would stay on, a coating of this would be the best protection against sun-strokes, but a heavy rain will frequently wash it off. The simplest and most lasting means is to cover the side of the stem next to the sun with a thin layer of straight-drawn straw, placed longitudinally and fastened with osiers.

PROTECTION AGAINST THE TEETH OF ANIMALS.—Those who have planted trees in the neighborhood of woods know by experience, that during long and severe winters, when the ground is covered with snow, deer, hares, and especially rabbits, gnaw the bark off trees as far as they can reach. When the bark has been gnawed through all round, the tree almost invariably dies. The dung of cows or of swine may prevent those animals from making the attack, but it is easily washed off by rain. Tar is preferable (not coal-tar, for this would kill the trees.) The whole of the lower part of the stem is done over with a brush; one application will last the winter. Furze is also a good preservative; a quantity of this sufficient to protect the tree is tied round it by the thick ends, the tops downwards and resting on the ground. By this the foot of the tree is kept cool, the earth is prevented from getting hard and cracking, and weeds from growing.

PROTECTION AGAINST BRUISES, &c.—Spikes and laths stuck with nails are frequently employed, but they do not fully answer the purpose; they often make wounds in the trees, and they do not prevent them from being uprooted by the wind, or by implements coming against them. Posts are the only efficient protection in this case; they may also be made a means of enabling the trees to withstand the action of wind. Guards composed of one post with spikes on it, or of two with cross pieces, or of three meeting so as to form a triangle, united by a single peg, are all defective, because the trees, when shaken by the wind, bruise and wound themselves against them. Four posts in a square round a tree are rather expensive, and the fourth is useless. Besides, it has been remarked that when the wood begins to decay, the four twist more readily than a triangle formed of three only. Three posts 4 1/2 to 5 feet high, placed in a triangle at 14 to 16 inches from the foot of tree, and united with cross pieces at the middle and top, appear to us to be the best means of protecting the trees from beasts rubbing against them, and from the shocks of axles, horses, collars, &c. By this means also we can keep the trees perfectly upright, in spite of the most violent winds. In order to do so, it is only requisite to fasten the stem with bands and cross pieces to the two posts opposite to the prevailing wind. The bands are prevented from pressing too hard on the stem by the interposition of moss, hay, or straw, &c. We may also keep the trees upright, if posts are too expensive, by placing turf against the stem in the opposite direction to that of the strongest wind, and treading the turf so that it may afford a greater resistance.

CULTURE AND MANAGEMENT OF THE TREES DURING TWO OR THREE YEARS AFTER BEING PLANTED.—Weeds should be destroyed by frequent hoeings, which also serve to loosen the surface of the ground when hard. Root suckers and shoots which push from the stems of the trees should be removed, not by tearing them away, but by cutting them off with the pruning knife. It is sometimes advantageous to protect new plantations from dryness, especially in light, sandy, or calcareous soils. Furze, old thatch, &c., laid on the ground effect this purpose perfectly well. In calcareous or very stony soils, flints and chalk lumps may also be used with with the same intention, but care must be taken to prevent them from coming in contact with the stem. With the view of preventing the bruises and cankers which often result from this practice a turf is rolled round the stems of the trees. The mound raised at the foot of the tree is usually levelled in two or three years, when the tree appears to have well taken root. The levelling of the mound is done with the intention of destroying the larvæ of insects, and to enable us to cultivate the surface, and thus benefit the roots. If there is danger of the tree being blown to one side, or uprooted, turf should be placed against the stem, as previously directed.

(To be continued.)